Our Rules
                        MIDWEST CLASSIC STOCKCAR ASSOCIATION
                                     2016 Rules


1.        HAVE FUN!!! This is most important!

2.        Cars and drivers must meet ALL safety rules.

3.        All cars will display Association sticker.

4.        ONE DRIVER PER NIGHT. A non-member may drive a car once, but must join before driving again.

5.        Drivers must be at least 16 years old, (under 18 with parent’s consent)—ALL drivers must have a valid
  driver’s license and vision restrictions must be followed to race!

6.        No alcohol/drugs/medications that alter your reflexes or reaction time, (including over the counter
   medications).

7.        Drive with the guy in front of you. (Penalties will be assessed on an individual basis.)

8.        Cars need to run tight in a group, back off if there is not a car beside you or challenging you from
   behind. If someone is consistently running way ahead of the pack, they will be subject to a restrictor
   plate or THROTTLE STOP.
MIRRORS are allowed so you can see the other cars.

9.        Once you have won a feature race, you will start in the back and will disqualified from winning at the
   next 2 events. (Car and Driver)
All non-winners will be on draw/redraw system. Previous winners will
   start behind them

10.        No radio communication devices (Race receivers Highly recommended).

11.        We know that there may be disagreements from time to time, but let’s try to get along and remember
    RULE #1 is why we’re here!!!!

12.        Membership fee for the year is $25. Must be paid before racing, unless prior arrangements have
    been made.

SAFETY EQUIPMENT…Let’s keep everyone SAFE!!

1.        SFI approved NECK BRACE AND FIRE SUIT is mandatory. RACING GLOVES ARE
  MANDATORY, RACING SHOES ARE RECOMMENDED

2.        Fire extinguisher fastened down (within driver’s reach) – STRICTLY ENFORCED.

3.        Good (3) inch – five (5) point harness,
Must be no older than 4 years old!

4.        DOT approved full-face helmet with shield.

5.        SFI approved fuel cell is mandatory, with tip-over valve, no PCV type valves allowed. Fuel cell with can
  recommended.

6.        Fully enclosed firewall between fuel cell and driver.

7.        Window net or arm restraints.

8.        Top must be enclosed over the driver, (no convertibles, and no sun roofs).

9.        Doors must be fastened shut.

10.      Fan shroud mandatory.

11.      Battery must be fastened down and in a plastic boat box if it is in the driver’s compartment. If it is in
   the trunk, it must be securely fastened down behind the firewall.

12.      Six point roll cage of minimum 1 5/8 tubing on main bars, (no exhaust tubing cages), mandatory door
   bars (minimum of 3). If the car had an existing roll cage, check it carefully, they often rust from within.
   Driver’s door plate of minimum 18 gauge steel recommended.

13.       Electric fuel pumps are only allowed on flathead engines, it must have a mercury or inertia switch,
    running light, and well-marked kill switch.

14.       MANDATORY – IGNITION KILL SWITCH WITHIN DRIVERS REACH WHEN YOU ARE BELTED IN.
   Clearly marked ON/OFF. A MASTER POWER SWITCH is recommended for all cars.

15.       Aluminum Racing Seat Mandatory!

16.       Numbers and accompanying letters (i.e. 4x, 2m, etc.)  Must be at least 2” wide and at least 18” tall
   and on both sides of the car in contrasting colors. (letter can be smaller)

17.       Solid motor mounts not required, but highly recommended.
NO Excessive engine setback! Front
   sparkplug can be no further back then even with  the upper balljoints!

18.      Solid front firewall and full floor from firewall to rear of cage is required, (non factory floor is ok). 18
   gauge sheet metal minimum, NO aluminum floor under driver’s seat. Interior may be dog housed in,
   floor is not necessary under the doghouse

19.      If fuel line runs through driver’s compartment, must be enclosed in conduit.  Steel or braided racing
   line recommended.

20.      Cars will be inspected before competing and may be inspected at any time.

FRAME and BODY

1.        OEM frames only!! No full tubular frames. Frame does not have to match body. No wheelbases
  shorter than 105”. Rear tubular frame allowed if suspension mounts in stock position.  Must have stock
  front stub!  Front upper control arm mounts may be altered and moved.

2.       Stock intent suspension, front and rear. Tubular Upper Control Arms allowed. Weight jacks are
 allowed. Pan hard bars allowed, as long as mounted in a stock configuration.  NO Excessive angles.
 May be curved for clearance, but absolutely NON-ADJUSTABLE!!   No coil-over or torsion
 suspension, NO half leafs, No fifth arm or pull bars on rear end, NO traction bars.

3.       Shocks – one per wheel, except for RF, which may be double shocked.

4.       Good working four wheel brakes. Random testing may be performed. Brake adjuster is ok from front
  to back. NO on/off switch.

5.       Steering – must have a steering box, can use power steering or rack and pinion.

6.       TIRES – MAX 9.5” mounted on 8” or smaller rim. You may use racing or standard tires. No snow or
  mud tires. No unilug wheels. Beadlock on RR only.

7.        Frame – if you replace it, it must have OEM frame rails (truck frame o.k.) and OEM width. Keep the
  frame in proportion to the body

8.        Body: The body must be an American made, 1950-1975 sedan, no pick-ups.
 Fiberglass STOCK
  appearing roofs allowed.  Must match body (E.G. 55 Chevy Kit Body)
Aluminum replacement  
  panels allowed as long STOCK appearing.
Bodies subject to approval before racing! The body
  must be of original width, but may be shortened (to an extent) to match frame wheelbase. Doors, hood
  and trunk lid must fasten securely. NO wings. Max 6” spoiler. NO weight restrictions.

9.        The car should be kept looking good, painted, clean and presentable in appearance. Keep the cars
  looking like old race cars…motor close to stock position, radiators in the front.

10.      Bumpers – must have front and rear bumpers and must be securely fastened. Do not have to be
  stock, may be tubular. No aftermarket nose pieces. *Exception is the 70’s Camaro may run plastic
  nose.

11.      If weight blocks are used, they must be secured with 1/2" bolts; weights must be painted white and
  have the car number on them.

12.      Rub rails are allowed, but better never be used!!!

13.      All Cars Should display what they are either on visor or grandstand side of car. Ex: 1964 Pontiac
  Le Mans, 1953 Chevy etc.

DRIVE-TRAIN

1.       V-8 American made block, NO cubic inch rule. One unmodified (IN ANY WAY) 2-barrel carburetor of
 
500 cfm or less, with no more than a one inch spacer or one inch adapter under the carburetor. Cast
 iron heads only!!   OEM aluminum, cast iron, or aftermarket aluminum intake that measure no more
 than 3.75” from the top of the block to the top of the intake for Ford and GM. 4.25 for Dodge/Chrysler
.  Flat Top Pistons Mandatory in 2016! Any exhaust, any ignition. ROLLER ROCKERS or ROLLER TIP
ROCKERS are allowed, but NO Roller cams or lifters! NO fuel injection OR turbo chargers.

2.     
 Inline 6 – American made stock automotive parts only. Crank MUST match OEM stroke. One
unmodified 2-barrel carburetor of 500 cfm or less, unmodified in any way, with no more than a one inch
spacer or one inch, adapter under the carburetor. Cast iron head. Any exhaust, any ignition. No
aftermarket cranks, NO ROLLER CAMS or ROLLER LIFTERS allowed! NO fuel injection OR turbo
chargers.

3.    
  Flatheads- can do anything they want, multi carbureted. Basically, whatever you can
 afford!!

4.      
Transmissions- must be OEM – any automatic. Any 3, 4 or 5 speed with clutch in blow-proof bell
 housing! Clutch pedal or hand clutch allowed – with working reverse. No in and out boxes.  Torque
 Convertors optional.

5.      
 Rear ends – any rear end, 3/4 ton truck, locked, full floating, or quick change with steel tubes are
 allowed. NO independent rear suspension allowed.

6.      
Driveshaft – must be painted white and must have a driveshaft loop, not over 6” from front u-joint.
Second loop constructed of cable or chain in the rear, recommended

7.      Must have a working starter.


DO NOT READ BETWEEN THE LINES. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN DO IT….YOU CAN’T!!!

                                   Contact Eric Cerny @ 402-615-2840

                                       Mike Ganskow @ 402-910-0164

                                      Jay Dee Becker @ 402-276-1133

                                      Jamie Richards @ 402-367-7688

                        or email MCSA00@live.com with any questions.